Discover an array of flavorful artisanal cheeses that have been aged in our unique cheese cave by our very own Maitre d'Fromage. Accompanied by dessert wines and vintage port, make it the beginning or grand finale of a memorable evening.
Maitre d’Fromage
Are you a gourmand with a passion for la fromage? A novice who’s intimidated by the very word “artisanal?” Regardless of your expertise, Carolyn Stromberg, Maitre d’Fromage at Old Hickory Steakhouse, can be your world-class guide. Read on for her tips on how to select, shop for, serve and savor fine cheeses. Bon appétit!
How to select fine cheeses
When it comes to choosing cheese, Ms. Stromberg’s advice is, “Eat what you like!” That said, a bit of background information will help you select from the delectable array of offerings available from a variety of purveyors.
An important distinction, unfamiliar to many cheese novices, is knowing the difference between mass-produced and artisanal cheeses. The goal of mass production cheese-makers is to produce large batches of products that are all uniform in taste, texture and appearance throughout the year, and from batch to batch. In contrast, the artisanal cheese-maker is generally a small farm, or co-op of farms, that makes the cheese by hand and in small batches. The goal is to yield unique flavors and textures, often influenced by natural factors such as the animal’s diet and the time of year the milk is produced.
Perhaps the most significant difference in cheese is the distinction between European and American fine cheeses. Bear in mind that in contrast to Europe, the American artisanal cheese trade is in its infancy. While there are many similarities between the two, each offers a unique approach to production. For example, in Europe the farmer sends his young cheeses to an affineur, who ages them; while in the U.S., the farmer generally both makes and ages the cheese.
Leading the U.S. in production are California, Wisconsin and Vermont. All are well ahead of the rest of the country in producing quality fine cheeses, but the southern U.S. represents the next up-and-coming cheese-making region. For information about the subject, Stromberg recommends The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese by Jeffrey P. Roberts, et al. Janet Fletcher’s column in the San Francisco Chronicle called “The Cheese Course” is also a good resource.
Another commonly misunderstood distinction is the difference between whole milk, double crème, and triple crème cheeses. This classification simply refers to the amount of butter fat retained in the cheese. For example, Cheddar is a type of whole milk cheese. A Fromager d’Affinois, which is somewhat richer than a classic brie, is a popular double crème cheese, and the most famous triple crèmes of note include St. Andres, Pierre Robert and Brillat-Savarin.
More formally, the artisanal cheese cognoscenti, or true connoisseur, will go several steps further to characterize cheese by three characteristics: milk type, texture and rind.
Here's some definitions:
Other cheese treatments including waxing, which is used on semi-aged cheese to hold in moisture and slow the aging process; salting (always used with bleu cheese, so as to slow the rate of growth of the distinctive blue mold that characterizes it); and larding, followed by wrapping in cheese cloth (as for cheddars, so as to retain moisture but allow the cheese to breath and build a rind throughout the aging process). Some cheese-makers further enhance the flavor of their creations by rubbing the cheese with spices or herbs.
How to shop for fine cheeses
Stromberg recommends avoiding large supermarket chains, instead preferring to shop for artisanal cheese at a gourmet market or a specialty cheese shop. Be sure to talk to the cheesemonger or fromagier – and do not be shy about asking for a taste! As she says, “Go to the cheese counter, taste four or five cheeses, make notes, buy one (so the cheesemonger doesn’t hate you!), then go home and read up on what you like.” Another good idea is to keep a cheese journal, writing down your favorites as you try them, making notes on the taste, quality and texture, so that you can refer back to your notes for future shopping trips.
If you have the opportunity, contact or visit one of the growing number of artisanal cheese farms across the U.S. Many owners would be thrilled to talk about every aspect of their cheeses or even take you for a tour. (Just be sure to call first to see if tours are provided!) Finally, if you’re really adventurous, or already experienced in selecting cheese, you can order online. Try one of Stromberg’s favorites -- Murray’s Cheese (www.murrayscheese.com) or Cowgirl Creamery (www.cowgirlcreamery.com).
How to serve fine cheeses
Ask your fromagier for recommendations applicable to the particular cheeses you select. As a general rule, however, fine cheeses should be consumed within a week after purchase. Avoid wrapping them in plastic, as that ends to diminish its flavor and freshness more quickly. Instead, ask for extra sheets of cheese paper from your cheese shop and change them occasionally. If no cheese paper is available, then wrap the cheese in wax or parchment paper first, and then plastic. Any mold on hard cheese can simply be scraped off before enjoying; any on soft cheeses should be cut cleanly away.
Storage is important: the vegetable drawer is a good place, because the humidity is high. Stromberg recommends throwing in some leafy greens near your cheese to maintain the moisture level. Locations to be avoided are those near the refrigerator fan (because the moving air will dry the cheese), or in the refrigerator door (where the temperature varies widely).
How to savor fine cheeses
Here's an insider's secret: if you plan to serve wine with your cheese course, choose the wine (or wines) first, then the cheese. The proper pairings can make all the difference in your gustatory experience. Try selecting one wine and five complementary cheeses, or five wines and five different cheeses.
In the summertime, lighter wines such as sauvignon blanc or a sparking variety are ideal when matched with young goat or sheep’s milk cheese. For a dessert course in the colder months, pair rich port wine with blue cheese or aged gouda.
Ideal cheese accompaniments include fruit, especially green apples, grapes, cherries and plums, and also nuts, such as marcona almonds, pecans and candied walnuts. Breads should be unflavored; a plain baguette (Stromberg enjoys the par-baked variety that you finish in the oven) or wafer-thin plain crackers are best since you don't want the bread's flavor to compete with the cheese.
If serving a traditional, formal cheese plate, the mildest cheese should be placed first – typically at six o’clock on the platter. Moving clockwise around the plate, the selections should range from mildest to strongest. If presenting a cheese board for guests to serve themselves at a more informal gathering, consider make “namecards” for your cheeses and display them on photograph clips so that guests can more easily discuss the characteristics of each as they savor the array.
Finally, for the best flavor, cheese should always be served at room temperature - soft cheeses should be allowed to warm for half an hour and hard cheeses for an hour before serving.
Now that you know the basics of selecting, shopping for, serving and savoring fine fromage, go forth and “Eat what you like!” says Stromberg. She looks forward to comparing notes the next time you visit Old Hickory Steakhouse.
Learn more about Carolyn Stromberg, Maitre d'Fromage at Old Hickory Steakhouse.
About Gaylord National Resort
Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center opened April 25, 2008 along the banks of the Potomac River, less than eight miles south of the nation’s capital, in National Harbor, Md., a new 300-acre waterfront destination. The Gaylord National Resort is the largest combined hotel and convention center on the Eastern Seaboard, offering 2,000 guest rooms, including 110 lavish suites; more than 470,000 square feet of convention, meeting, exhibit and pre-function space; acclaimed restaurants; Relâche™ Spa; Pose Ultra Lounge; and a soaring 18-story, glass-covered atrium. For more information, visit www.gaylordnational.com
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